|
Breeding Rabbits for Your Homestead
by Victoria Ries
As my own family strives toward self-sufficiency, we have
come to realize that rabbit meat has become an important source of nutritious,
hormone-free food for us. I raise large New Zealand Whites as they are prolific
breeders guaranteeing a plentiful meat supply for our homestead.
In my experience, this is a simple and rewarding occupation plus I make extra
income when selling breeding pairs. I slaughter my fryers at approximately ten
to twelve weeks of age filling the freezer and canning the rest.
One can use rabbit as a substitute in any recipe that calls for chicken. Rabbit
and ham pie, rabbit and dumplings, deep-fried rabbit and a host of other tasty
recipes await your family's certain approval.
Housing
Rabbits should be raised on wire; hardware cloth is ideal strength-wise. Avoid
chicken wire floors as babies will be lost to the ground and the wire is easily
torn apart by predators. Wood floors get soaked with urine and feces,
subsequently becoming a breeding ground for bacteria. Wire floors prevent
hutches from smelling and keep the rabbits' feet from getting wet and sore.
Used hutches should be thoroughly disinfected before placing your rabbits into
them. Use a blow-torch on the wire to burn off impacted fecal matter and old
fur. Use plenty of good disinfectant on the wooden parts and rinse thoroughly.
Dry the hutches in the sun to take advantage of its natural bleaching power.
Sturdy tarpaulins may be used to cover the hutches at night and during inclement
weather. A freezing wind may kill a rabbit, whereas meat rabbits can usually
tolerate temperatures to -20 degrees F comfortably. During the hot summer months
the hutches should be placed in the shade to prevent your rabbits suffering
heat-related illness. Ice may be added to their drinking water to keep it cool.
Breeding
When a doe reaches 18 to 20 weeks of age she is ready to breed. Seven days after
kindling (giving birth) the doe can be rebred. I don't recommend breeding does
more than four times a year. Over-breeding may lead to the cannibalism of does'
babies. Once this happens the doe will most likely repeat the bad behavior;
therefore, it is best to slaughter her or sell her as a pet.
Bucks and does should be separated, each having a hutch of their own. Fighting
will occur if bucks or does are placed in the same hutch. Doe's hutches should
be provided with a nesting box with ample room for the doe to lie down and nurse
her offspring.
I place doe's hutches in between the bucks' to detect heat cycles more
accurately, although does are usually in heat and breeding is successful. Does
in heat will bite at their wire, gnaw at the wooden parts of their hutches and
run from one end of the hutch to the other. Place the doe in the buck's
hutch-never the other way around; fur will fly and death may occur. After a
successful service the buck should fall straight over onto his back. Count 31
days from that date for the due date of the doe's expected litter.
One buck is all that's required to breed 15 does. You may wish to buy several
bucks with which to experiment, keeping only the bucks that produce
substantially large litters of healthy rabbits. The buck is half your herd and
should be fed free-choice; he'll need his strength for stud service. Keep
records of successful breeding, how many rabbits were produced and due dates.
The summer months are more successful for breeding as cold is a negative factor
during the winter.
Ensure the pregnant doe is fed free-choice with plenty of available fresh water.
A day or two before the doe kindles she will pull her tummy fur to line a cozy
nest for her litter. Don't be alarmed if the doe loses interest in her food;
this is normal. The doe will probably kindle at night when all is quiet. When
you go to check on her in the morning she will stay in her nesting box with her
new babies.
Do not disturb her for a full 24 hours no matter how much you are tempted. After
this time period has elapsed you may distract the doe with some feed and feel
around the nesting box for cold babies that have died. Usually the mother will
cast out dead babies from the nesting box; remove these promptly before flies do
their worst.
At three weeks of age the doe will bring her babies out of the nesting box to
introduce them to solid food and water. This is a good opportunity for you to
visually check the babies for any abnormalities and take notes.
At five or six weeks of age you may transfer the babies into the 'nursery' hutch
where 20 or more bunnies can live together until they get a bit older. Ensure
free access to feed and water and keep them clean. A good commercial rabbit feed
is all the nutrition that is required; avoid extras. Healthy rabbits should have
solid droppings; never runny. The 'scours' may kill a rabbit from dehydration.
Sick rabbits should be isolated to prevent the entire herd getting infected.
Call your veterinarian for advice should you need professional help.
Self-sufficiency doesn't have to cost a fortune and raising rabbits with its low
cost start-up is an effective way to secure a constant source of delicious meat.
You will be amazed at how versatile rabbit meat is and one taste of that
luscious silky gravy and you'll want a second helping-even a third!
Above: New mom, Snowy
Fur-lined nesting box containing new-born baby bunnies
Eleven-day old bunnies
Fat and sassy bunnies (eleven days old)
Perfect baby bunnies
Photographs by Victoria Ries © Copyright 2009 All Rights Reserved
Born: 06/03/09, the bunnies in this photo are one month old today 07/03/09
Photographs by Victoria Ries © Copyright 2009 All Rights Reserved
| 